Clean 1990 Ford Mustang LX Hatch 5.0 (Hickory) $7000

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Posted: 2015-04-24 7:23am

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Clean 1990 Ford Mustang LX Hatch 5.0 – $ 7000 (Hickory)

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1990 Ford Mustang paint color : blue type : hatchback fuel : gas transmission : manual title status : clean cylinders : 8 cylinders

condition: excellent

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Hey guys, I’m selling my 1990 Ford Mustang fox body. I have a CLEAN title in hand for the car in my name. It is twilight blue metallic and previous owner stated he had the car re-painted 5-6 years ago. It is a pretty good paint job, not the best I’ve seen but definitely not the worst. It does hold a great shine and looks absolutely gorgeous in the sunlight. The car has 131,580 miles but will go up as I do drive the car every chance I get when it’s nice out. I would not hesitate to drive this car anywhere and have taken it on several long trips. It can be daily driven with no problem if you choose to do so with it. It has the original 302 engine that runs great and has good oil pressure. No funny noises, smoking, leaking oil, ticking etc…The 302 is backed by a Tremec TKO 500 transmission that shifts like butter!! It has a fairly new Spec Stage 3 clutch in it and a Hurst shifter. The rear end was completely rebuilt and a Ford Racing 3.73 gear was installed. It has BBK long tube headers, BBK off road h-pipe and 1 chamber mufflers with turn-downs (angled). It is lowered on Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs and has new KYB struts and shocks. The car sits on Weld Racing Rodlite wheels wrapped in almost new tires front and rear. The fronts are 4 lug and the rears are 5 lug. I’m not sure why that was done but it was done by a previous owner. It would be pretty easy to swap the car over to 5 lug now because only the front needs done if you chose to do so. The windows are professionally tinted with a lifetime warranty. Power windows, power door locks, power mirrors, all running/turn signals/reverse lights work fine. It has a 5″ Autometer tach that is mounted on the dash and functions properly. The car has a new alternator, starter and a new battery. Spark plugs, spark plug wires and distributor cap and rotor button are all fairly new also. The car has had headlights put in it recently and also had a set of quarter window trim covers put on because the quarter window trim showed some wear from over the years. The interior is in good shape. The rear seats are out of the car right now because I planned on installing a rear seat delete but I never got around to doing so. I do have the rear seats and all the mounting hardware and the rear seats are in perfect shape!

The car does have some known issues and I try to be as honest as I can be when selling something so I will list them now….Power steering pump has a little leak. There is a line that runs right off of the P/S pump on the bottom side and that is where the leak comes from. It is only a small drip every couple of days so not bad. All of the A/C equipment is there but it needs a charge and/or to be converted to R-134A. The clutch spins freely on the compressor so it’s not locked up. Ash tray door does not open/close properly. The heater core is bad. The Idle Air Control went bad on me yesterday. I noticed the idle was hanging between shifts and the car was idling high sitting still so I unplugged connector for the Idle Air Control and the idle came down and it stopped hanging up between shifts so it will need a new IAC (cheap and easy fix or just leave it unplugged and drive as is). I have been driving it that way since then and it has been fine but the check engine light does flash now occasionally. Horn and cruise control does not work and the air bag light flashes so I assume the clock spring is broke. The temperature gauge does not work but that is the only gauge that doesn’t work. The car doesn’t overheat at all. I’ve had it in stop and go traffic for long periods of time with no issues. To me, it sounds like the car has an exhaust leak where the header meets the h-pipe on the drivers side. I’ve taken it to a good friend of mine who is a mechanic and also to a local muffler shop and they said it may be in the ball socket on the h-pipe but it’s so minimal that it’s not really an issue. Again, I’m just trying to list everything I know. I’m located in Hickory, NC. The price for the car is $ 7,000 OBO. Don’t be afraid to make an offer. The worst I can say is no. I’m NOT interested in trades. Call or text me with any questions at (828)51Four-31Five0. Thanks!

  • do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers

post id: 4993690317

posted: 2015-04-24 7:23am

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Avoid scams, deal locally Beware wiring (e.g. Western Union), cashier checks, money orders, shipping.

  • safety tips
  • prohibited items
  • product recalls
  • avoiding scams

reply

x prohibited[?]

Posted: 2015-04-24 7:23am

print

Clean 1990 Ford Mustang LX Hatch 5.0 – $ 7000 (Hickory)

< >

1990 Ford Mustang paint color : blue type : hatchback fuel : gas transmission : manual title status : clean cylinders : 8 cylinders

condition: excellent

  • safety tips
  • prohibited items
  • product recalls
  • avoiding scams

Hey guys, I’m selling my 1990 Ford Mustang fox body. I have a CLEAN title in hand for the car in my name. It is twilight blue metallic and previous owner stated he had the car re-painted 5-6 years ago. It is a pretty good paint job, not the best I’ve seen but definitely not the worst. It does hold a great shine and looks absolutely gorgeous in the sunlight. The car has 131,580 miles but will go up as I do drive the car every chance I get when it’s nice out. I would not hesitate to drive this car anywhere and have taken it on several long trips. It can be daily driven with no problem if you choose to do so with it. It has the original 302 engine that runs great and has good oil pressure. No funny noises, smoking, leaking oil, ticking etc…The 302 is backed by a Tremec TKO 500 transmission that shifts like butter!! It has a fairly new Spec Stage 3 clutch in it and a Hurst shifter. The rear end was completely rebuilt and a Ford Racing 3.73 gear was installed. It has BBK long tube headers, BBK off road h-pipe and 1 chamber mufflers with turn-downs (angled). It is lowered on Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs and has new KYB struts and shocks. The car sits on Weld Racing Rodlite wheels wrapped in almost new tires front and rear. The fronts are 4 lug and the rears are 5 lug. I’m not sure why that was done but it was done by a previous owner. It would be pretty easy to swap the car over to 5 lug now because only the front needs done if you chose to do so. The windows are professionally tinted with a lifetime warranty. Power windows, power door locks, power mirrors, all running/turn signals/reverse lights work fine. It has a 5″ Autometer tach that is mounted on the dash and functions properly. The car has a new alternator, starter and a new battery. Spark plugs, spark plug wires and distributor cap and rotor button are all fairly new also. The car has had headlights put in it recently and also had a set of quarter window trim covers put on because the quarter window trim showed some wear from over the years. The interior is in good shape. The rear seats are out of the car right now because I planned on installing a rear seat delete but I never got around to doing so. I do have the rear seats and all the mounting hardware and the rear seats are in perfect shape!

The car does have some known issues and I try to be as honest as I can be when selling something so I will list them now….Power steering pump has a little leak. There is a line that runs right off of the P/S pump on the bottom side and that is where the leak comes from. It is only a small drip every couple of days so not bad. All of the A/C equipment is there but it needs a charge and/or to be converted to R-134A. The clutch spins freely on the compressor so it’s not locked up. Ash tray door does not open/close properly. The heater core is bad. The Idle Air Control went bad on me yesterday. I noticed the idle was hanging between shifts and the car was idling high sitting still so I unplugged connector for the Idle Air Control and the idle came down and it stopped hanging up between shifts so it will need a new IAC (cheap and easy fix or just leave it unplugged and drive as is). I have been driving it that way since then and it has been fine but the check engine light does flash now occasionally. Horn and cruise control does not work and the air bag light flashes so I assume the clock spring is broke. The temperature gauge does not work but that is the only gauge that doesn’t work. The car doesn’t overheat at all. I’ve had it in stop and go traffic for long periods of time with no issues. To me, it sounds like the car has an exhaust leak where the header meets the h-pipe on the drivers side. I’ve taken it to a good friend of mine who is a mechanic and also to a local muffler shop and they said it may be in the ball socket on the h-pipe but it’s so minimal that it’s not really an issue. Again, I’m just trying to list everything I know. I’m located in Hickory, NC. The price for the car is $ 7,000 OBO. Don’t be afraid to make an offer. The worst I can say is no. I’m NOT interested in trades. Call or text me with any questions at (828)51Four-31Five0. Thanks!

  • do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers

post id: 4993690317

posted: 2015-04-24 7:23am

email to friend

best of [?]

Avoid scams, deal locally Beware wiring (e.g. Western Union), cashier checks, money orders, shipping.

  • safety tips
  • prohibited items
  • product recalls
  • avoiding scams

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